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Famagusta: (Magosa -
Gazi Mağusa) |
Thanks to its troubled history;
Famagusta is in fact two towns rolled into one. The ancient walled city of
Famagusta is much as it was over five hundred years ago when Ottoman siege
engines lay beyond its walls. Meanwhile the modern day town of Varosha (that
flourished after independence in 1960) now lies trapped in the buffer zone
between North and South Cyprus . The town is locked in a historical stasis;
washing still hangs from sagging lines and the empty streets are given over to
stray cats. The Turkish authorities have cut off all access to the city and so
it remains a melancholy symbol of a land divided; its presence a reminder to the
Greeks of all they have lost.
Seven hundred years ago Famagusta was the richest city on earth; famed
throughout the world for its mercantile magnificence. Famagusta 's economy
boomed under Venetian rule, fed by trade routes that spanned the globe from
England to India . In fact, the city was so well known that Shakespeare chose it
as the setting for his play Othello . Famagusta 's new wealth spurred on a
frenzy of medieval building, much of which can be seen today, including: the
Cathedral of St Nicolas, numerous houses and the remains of the fortified
citadel. Unfortunately the fortifications weren't as robust as they could have
been, and the city was taken by the Ottomans in the sixteenth century.
Famagusta soon slid into decline to become remote 'backwater posting' that
normally signalled the end of an official's career. Ironically this neglect both
preserved the city and drained it of life. Today the shell of the walled city
survives; an impressive façade which promises more than it delivers. The
exception is the city centre, which has been recently renovated and retains much
of its historical appeal. Otherwise those looking for a taste of Famagusta 's
medieval past should poke around the ancient bazaar in the heart of the old town
or head up to the Venetian fortifications.
The celebrated travel writer Colin Thubron once referred to Famagusta a 'prince
of walled cities', yet anyone hoping to discover another Dubrovnik or Carcassone
may leave disappointed.
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