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Kyrenia: (Girne -
Kerynia) |
Framed by rugged mountains,
dominated by a crusader castle and fringed by turquoise seas; the photogenic
port of Kyrenia is the saviour of Northern Cyprus ' postcard industry. Kyrenia's
natural setting is the envy of the island and arguably the most beautiful in the
whole of Cyprus . A relative lack of development has preserved the ancient
harbour, and visitors can trace Kyrenia's six thousand year history in the
weather-worn jumble of architecture that lines the waterfront.
Kyrenia began life as one of classical Cyprus ' most important 'city kingdoms',
successively under the control of the Greeks, the Romans and later the Arabs. By
the 12 th century the port was flourishing under Crusader control, but Ottoman
interference soon pitched it into decline. The British successfully revived
Kyrenia's fortunes, but the Turkish invasion of 1974 once again emptied it of
people. Today Kyrenia's population is beginning to swell, but this time it's
mostly with expatriates drawn to the region by its mild climate and relaxed pace
of life.
Most visitors to Kyrenia stay in one of the nearby resort complexes, as
accommodation in the historic centre is limited. However, it is possible to find
something central; you'll just have to book early. The only real 'sight' in
Kyrenia (aside from the harbour itself) is the castle, which most guidebooks
will tell you was begun during the crusades and later expanded by the Venetians.
Once you've had a nose around this impressive fortress, the chances are that
you'll be talked into taking a boat trip along the coast. More adventurous types
might be tempted by some of the excellent local dive sites, which boast a number
of wrecks and reefs to explore.
Besides serving as an inspiring backdrop, the Kyrenian mountain range provides
endless days out. Hiring a car is highly recommended in order to visit St
Hilarion Castle and Bellapais. St Hilarion Castle is almost too picturesque for
its own good; perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking Kyrenia, it is the best
preserved of the crusader redoubts and should fulfil the knightly fantasies of
all but the most hardened modernists. Bellapais village is a charming sprawl of
old farmhouses and villas dominated by a ruined abbey. It's probably best-known
as the inspiration (and setting) for much of Lawrence Durrell's classic Cypriot
treatise Bitter Lemons .
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