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Selimiye Mosque (St.
Sophia Cathedral): |
| Nicosia - North Cyprus |
This ancient church is the chief mosque in the northern state of Cyprus,
and the great festivals of Bayram and other Moslem gatherings are
conducted here. It was formerly the cathedral of St. Sophia which was
built in the period 1209 A.D. to 1228, over the ruins of a previous
building. Only recently, in 1976, have the ruins of the ancient building
before 1200 A.D. been discovered, on the southern side. In style of
architecture, St. Sophia resembles the famous mediaeval cathedrals of
France.
The church was severely damaged by earthquakes in 1491, 1547 and 1735
A.D. and yet, as we see it today, the cathedral has survived. What is
the reason for this? One would expect such high buildings to be razed to
the ground during those severe earthquakes that occurred some centuries
ago, for in those days, reinforced concrete and steel girders were
unknown. The builders of ancient Gothic cathedrals always strived to
make them as high as possible, to reach "up to heaven" and so inspire
both awe and solemnity. The problem was how to do this, and, at the same
time ensure that the walls would not collapse. This was done by building
stone pillars outside to support the walls which are known as
buttresses. If you live in a "posh" villa in Cyprus, your walls should
be supported at the corners by buttresses. If there are none, then get
out of the house quickly in the next earthquake.
Figure 7 shows a massive buttress for St. Sophia cathedral, of which
there are many all round the exterior walls. Notice how massive they
are, and widened at the base to give added strength. Later it was found
that for such high walls, these buttresses were weak and the first
Gothic churches of the 11th century often cracked and collapsed. The
next improvement to be made was that of the flying buttress.
The one shown in Figure 7 is unique, for it springs from the ground
level, while all the others spring from high massive pillars. There is a
much frequented pedestrian walk underneath the archway here, as it leads
to the bus station nearby. For many years, a well known character had
his smoking kebab stall here, but not only did he sell t he roasted
meat, but he himself seemed to eat it all day long. He grew bigger and
bigger until he, too, needed a buttress, but alas he has now departed.
Another improvement was to make the flying buttress spring from the
conventional pillar type, by raising the latter to a much greater
height. This would then give support to the topmost part of the walls
and, most important of all, to the roof.
The roof always remained the weakest structure in all cathedrals, and
likewise, it is so in your own house. This is the mass that comes down
on you during an earth tremor; just too bad if the 'quake occurs during
the night! In Figure 8, the high flying buttresses have been used to
build a very high nave with very large windows. The makers of stained
glass windows were expert craftsmen and they wanted big window spaces
for displays of biblical scenes and, at the same time, a "dim religious
light" was maintained to inspire awe and reverence. Churches were
purposely kept dark and gloomy, for natural fears of the dark are part
and parcel of the psychic establishment of reverence.
ln the eastern part of the church, i.e. the choir and altar section, it
was always difficult to provide support, because the walls were weakened
by so many windows.
ln Figure 9 we can see the semi-circular arrangement of the flying
buttresses which are very necessary in this part of the building owing
to the polygonal shape of the apse. Notice, in fig. 8, how wide they
have made the pillar buttresses from which the arches spring. This means
that the weight of the massive supporting pillars is carried further
away from the wall.
When you visit the Selimiye mosque, be sure to contact the English
speaking guide, Mr. Mehmet Koray, who will be pleased to conduct your
round; remember, shoes off, as it is a holy place. You will be shown
many mediaeval tombstones that help to date the church. Noteworthy, is
that of Arnati Viconti, I347, and that of a Florentine merchant of l380.
The interior of the mosque has been brightened up with white, red and
yellow candelabra. When the cathedral was converted into a mosque in
1570, a re-arrangement was made to oriental it towards Mecca and not
Jerusalem. The granite columns of the interior are Roman, probably from
Salamis, and this indicates that there must have been some sort of
Byzantine building here before 1200 A.D.
On the south side of the mosque is a Greek church built in the Byzantine
and mediaeval styles. It is called The Bedestan, meaning covered market,
and this it was, until the municipal market moved to buildings on the
other side of the road. The Bedestan i s now preserved as an ancient
monument and the interior has many fallen marble and granite columns,
probably Roman, and it shows that the Bedestan was once a much larger
church. Looking around the church, one can still see the effects of the
severe earthquakes of centuries ago. The guide will show you a vaulted
room full of mediaeval tombstones, many having the coats of arms of
crusader knights. The best photograph to take is that of the beautifully
carved Gothic door on the northern side. It is a good ex ample of French
mediaeval stone carving. Quite a mystery is why two such large churches
were built so close together.
The two tall minarets of the Selimiye mosque form a very prominent
landmark in Nicosia. Coming down from the mountains on the Kyrenia road,
and just before reaching Gönyeli, one can pinpoint Nicosia by these twin
towers. The next time you fly over Nicosia, you will hardly notice the
mosque, but most conspicuous of all are the Venetian encircling walls
with their eleven polygonal bastions. |
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